Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS): strong surfactant, creates rich lather, can be harsh and stripping. Common in cheap face washes. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES): slightly gentler than SLS. Still a bit drying for sensitive skin. Cocamidopropyl Betaine: gentle, derived from coconut. Used in sensitive skin products. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate: very gentle, commonly found in cleansers for dry/sensitive skin. 📋
💧 Moisturising Ingredients — What's Hydrating You
Humectants — Water Attractors
Glycerin: extremely effective, inexpensive water attractor. The workhorse of moisturisation. In almost every good moisturiser. Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate): attracts up to 1,000x its weight in water. Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): hydrating and soothing. Great for sensitive skin. 💧
Emollients — Skin Smoothers
Squalane: lightweight, non-comedogenic oil that mimics skin's natural sebum. Excellent for all skin types. Jojoba Oil: similar molecular structure to sebum — absorbs easily, doesn't clog pores. Shea Butter: rich, heavy emollient — excellent for dry skin, too heavy for oily skin. Dimethicone: silicone that smooths skin surface and reduces water loss. 🧴
Occlusives — Moisture Lockers
Petrolatum (Vaseline): the most effective occlusive. Creates a physical barrier that prevents water loss. Best used at night on very dry skin. Beeswax: natural occlusive, commonly used in lip balms and heavier creams. 🔒
⚗️ Active Ingredients — What's Treating Your Skin
Retinol/Retinoids (Vitamin A): anti-ageing, texture improvement, acne treatment. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): oil control, pore minimising, brightening, barrier support. Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): antioxidant, brightening, collagen production. Salicylic Acid (BHA): pore cleaning, acne prevention, blackhead treatment. Glycolic Acid/Lactic Acid (AHAs): surface exfoliation, brightness, texture. Benzoyl Peroxide: acne bacteria killer. Ceramides: barrier repair and maintenance. 📊
🚫 Ingredients to Watch Out For
Parfum/Fragrance: common irritant. No skin benefit. Avoid for sensitive skin. Denatured Alcohol (Alcohol Denat.): stripping and drying at high concentrations. Note: fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl alcohol) are NOT drying — they're moisturising. Parabens: preservatives with debated safety. Most major brands have moved away from them. 🚨
🎯 How to Read an Ingredient List
Ingredients are listed in order of concentration — highest to lowest. The first 5–6 ingredients make up the majority of the product. Look for your target actives (niacinamide, salicylic acid) in the top half of the list — if they're near the bottom, concentration is likely too low to be effective. 💡